Orly (ORY) (PHONE: 01-49-75-15-15) is 16 km (10 mi) south of Paris. Though the airport isn't served by high-speed trains, get to Paris from here is easy.
Flying time to Paris is 7 hours from New York, 9 1/2 hours from Chicago, and 11 hours from Los Angeles. Flying time from the United Kingdom to Paris is 1½ hours.
Major Airlines
Air Canada (PHONE: 800/869-9000 in the U.S. and Canada; 08-25-880-881 in France).
Air France (PHONE: 800/237-2747 in the U.S.; 08-02-80-28-02 in France; www.airfrance.com).
American Airlines (PHONE: 800/433-7300 in the U.S.; 01-69-32-73-07 in France; www.aa.com).
British Airways (PHONE: 800/247-9297 in the U.S.; 0345/222111 in the U.K.; 08-25-82-54-00 in France; www.britishairways.com).
Continental (PHONE: 800/231-0856 in the U.S.; 01-42-99-09-09 in France; www.continental.com).
Delta (PHONE: 800/241-4141 in the U.S.; 08-00-35-40-80 in France; www.delta.com).
Northwest/KLM (PHONE: 800/225-2525 in the U.S.; 01-42-66-90-00 in France; www.klm.com).

Qantas (PHONE: 800/227-4500 in the U.S.; 08-03-84-68-46 in France; www.qantas.com).
TWA (PHONE: 800/892-4141 in the U.S.; 08-01-89-28-92 in France; www.twa.com).
United (PHONE: 800/538-2929 in the U.S.; 08-01-72-72-72 in France; www.ual.com).
US Airways (PHONE: 800/428-4322 in the U.S.; 08-20-30-49-23 in France; www.usairways.com).
Travel between the U.K. and France

Air France (PHONE: 020/8742-6600 in the U.K.; 08-02-80-28-02 in France; www.airfrance.com).
British Airways (PHONE: 0345/222-111 in the U.K.; 08-02-80-29-02 in France; www.britishairways.com).
British Midland (PHONE: 020/8754-7321; 0345/554-554 in the U.K.; 01-48-62-55-65 in France; www.british-midland.com).

Travel within France
Air France (PHONE: 800/237-2747 in the U.S.; 08-02-80-28-02 in France; www.airfrance.com).
Air Liberté (PHONE: 08-03-80-58-05; www.air-liberte.fr).

Taxis & Shuttles
Air France Bus (PHONE: 01-41-56-89-00 recorded information in English; www.car.airfrance.fr). Airport Shuttle (PHONE: 01-30-11-11-90; 888/426-2705 toll free from the U.S.; FAX: 01-30-11-11-99; www.airportshuttle.fr). Paris Airports Service (PHONE: 08-21-80-08-01; FAX: 01-49-62-78-79; www.parisairportservice.com).
Transfers Between the Airport and Town

By Train
RER-B line from Charles de Gaulle . The least expensive way to get into Paris from CDG is on the RER-B line suburban express train, which leaves from beneath Terminal 2 (look for signs for the RER in the airport terminal; you may have to catch the free shuttle to get to the RER station, which is only a short ride away). Trains to central Paris (Les Halles, St-Michel, Luxembourg) depart every 15 minutes. The fare (including métro connection) is EUR7.32, and the journey takes about 35 minutes. You have to carry your luggage down to the train tracks, and trains can be crowded during rush hour.
RER-C or Orlyrail line . From the Orly airport, the most economical way to get into Paris is to take the RER-C or Orlyrail line; catch the free shuttle bus from the terminal to the train station. Trains to Paris leave every 15 minutes. The fare is EUR4.6. The journey takes about 35 minutes.
Orlyval Monorail. Monorail service operates between Orly airport and the Antony RER-B station every 7 minutes. The fare to downtown Paris is EUR8.70.

By Bus
Air France bus (PHONE: 01-41-56-89-00 recorded information in English; www.car.airfrance.fr) serves Charles de Gaulle and Orly. You needn't have flown Air France to use this service.
The bus operates every 12-20 minutes between Charles de Gaulle and Montparnasse, as well as between the airport and the Arc de Triomphe, with a stop at the Air France air terminal at Porte Maillot. The fare is EUR9.92. The journey takes about 40 minutes.
The bus from Orly to Les Invalides on the Left Bank and Montparnasse; operates every 12 minutes. The fare is EUR7.60. The journey takes between 30 and 45 minutes, depending on traffic.
Roissybus . This bus operated by the Paris Transit Authority runs between Charles de Gaulle and the Opéra every 15 minutes; the cost is EUR7.32. You have to hail the bus you want - it will not stop automatically. Rush-hour traffic can make the trip slow.
Orlybus . The Paris Transit Authority's Orlybus leaves every 15 minutes for the Denfert-Rochereau métro station; the cost is EUR5.3.

By Shuttle
For a comfortable, hassle-free arrival in Paris, you can arrange a ride with Airport Shuttle or Paris Airports Service . MasterCard and Visa are accepted and the operators speak English. Rates are set: approximately EUR14 for one person, with a lower rate for a second person traveling to the same destination. It is best to call, fax, or e-mail your request at least 24 hours in advance, noting your flight number, expected time of arrival, and your address in Paris.
Airport Shuttle (PHONE: 01-30-11-11-90; 888/426-2705 toll free from the U.S.; FAX: 01-30-11-11-99; www.airportshuttle.fr).
Paris Airports Service (PHONE: 08-21-80-08-01; FAX: 01-49-62-78-79; www.parisairportservice.com).

Taxis
Taxis are not the best option for getting into the city.
From Charles de Gaulle, the journey takes a minimum of 30 minutes but can take as long as one hour. The fares run between EUR26 and EUR46, depending on the traffic. You can ask for a quote before getting into the taxi, but it is almost certain that your driver will respond with a shrug. There is also a EUR.91 supplement per piece of luggage.
From Orly, taxis take at least 25 minutes to get to downtown Paris; the fare generally runs between EUR15.25 and EUR30.55.

Fares & Schedules
Schedules and tickets are available at any travel agency throughout France or via the Internet. Travel agencies accept traveler's checks, major credit cards, and cash. Fares vary, but a round-trip from Dover to Calais completed within five days costs EUR36.65 for one person, EUR221.40 for two adults plus a car. The price doubles if the visit exceeds five days.

Bus Information
Eurolines (28 av. Général-de-Gaulle, Bagnolet, PHONE: 08-36-69-52-52 in France; 020/7730-3499 in the U.K.; www.eurolines.fr).

Fares, Schedules, & Reservations
Travelers can call for train information or reserve tickets in any Paris station, regardless of destination. If you know what station you are departing from, you can get a free schedule there (while supplies last), or you can access the multilingual computerized schedule information network at any Paris station. Reservations and ticket purchases can also be made while at the computer. Go to the Grandes Lignes counter for travel within France and to the Billets Internationaux desk if you're heading out of the country. Calls are charged by the minute at the SNCF's 08 number, so it's better to go to the nearest station and make reservations or visit the SNCF Web site.

Seat reservations are required on TGVs, and are a good idea on trains that may be crowded - particularly in summer and holidays on popular routes. You also need a reservation for sleeping accommodations.

Train Information
BritRail Travel (PHONE: 800/677-8585 in the U.S.; 020/7834-2345 in the U.K.; www.britrail.net).
Eurostar (PHONE: 08-36-35-35-39 in France; 0345/881881 in the U.K.; www.eurostar.com).
InterCity Europe (Victoria Station, London, PHONE: 020/7834-2345; 020/7828-0892; 0990/848-848 credit-card bookings).
Rail Europe (PHONE: 800/942-4866 in the U.S., www.raileurope.com).
SNCF (88 rue St-Lazare, 75009 Paris, PHONE: 08-36-35-35-35, www.sncf.fr).
EurailPasses and EuroPasses
You can ride the rails throughout Europe on any of several plans. You must purchase your EurailPass or Europass at home before leaving for France, and don't assume that your pass guarantees you a seat on a train. You need to book seats ahead even if you're using a pass.
EurailPass. France is one of 17 countries in which you can use the EurailPass, which provides unlimited first-class rail travel in all participating countries for the duration of the pass. If you plan to rack up the miles, get a standard pass. These are available for 15 days ($554), 21 days ($718), one month ($890), two months ($1,260), and three months ($1,558).
Europass. If your plans call for only limited train travel, look into a Europass, which costs less money than a EurailPass. Unlike with a EurailPass, you're purchasing a limited number of travel days, in a limited number of countries, during a specified time period. For example, a two-month Europass ($348-$728) allows between 5 and 15 days of rail travel but costs around $200 less than the least expensive EurailPass. The Europass is good only in France, Germany, Italy, Spain, and Switzerland, and the number of countries you can visit is further limited by the type of pass you buy.
Rail-Pass Plans. In addition to standard EurailPasses, ask about special rail-pass plans. Among these are the Eurail Youthpass (for those under age 26), the Eurail Saver Pass (which gives a discount for two or more people traveling together), a Eurail Flexipass (which allows a certain number of travel days within a set period), the Euraildrive Pass, and the Europass Drive (train and rental car).

French Rail Passes
For travel within France you can purchase one of the discount rail passes available only in France from SNCF.
Senior Passes. You can get a reduced fare if you're a senior citizen (over 60). There are two options: for the Prix Découverte Senior, all you have to do is show a valid ID with your age and you're entitled to up to a 25% reduction in fares in first and second class. The second, the Carte Senior, is better if you're planning on spending a lot of time traveling; it costs EUR44.20, is valid for one year, and entitles you to up to a 50% reduction on most trains with a guaranteed minimum reduction of 25%. It also entitles you to a 30% discount on trips outside of France.

Children's Passes. With the Carte Enfant Plus, for EUR53.35 children under 12 and up to four accompanying adults can get up to 50% off on most trains for an unlimited number of trips. This card is perfect if you're planning on spending a lot of time traveling in France with your children, as it's valid for one year. You can also opt for the Prix Découverte Enfant Plus: when you buy your ticket, simply show a valid I.D. with your child's age and you can get a significant discount for your child and a 25% reduction for up to four accompanying adults.

Other Discounts. When traveling together, two people (who don't have to be a couple) can save money with the Prix Découverte à Deux. You'll get a 25% discount during "périodes bleus" (blue periods: weekdays and not on or near any holidays). You have to be with the person you said you would be traveling with.

If you purchase an individual ticket from SNCF in France and you're under 26, you automatically get a 25% reduction (a valid I.D., such as your passport, is necessary). If you're going to be using the train quite a bit during your stay in France and if you're under 26, consider buying the Carte 12-25 (EUR41.15), which offers unlimited 50% reductions for one year (provided that there's space available at that price; otherwise you'll just get the standard 25% discount).

If you don't qualify for price reductions for seniors, children, or others and if you plan on traveling at least 200 km (132 mi) round-trip and don't mind staying over a Saturday night, look into the Prix Découverte Séjour. This ticket gives you a 25% reduction.

Between the U.K. and France
Short of flying, the Channel Tunnel is the fastest way to cross the English Channel: 3 hours from London's central Waterloo Station to Paris's central Gare du Nord, 35 minutes from Folkestone to Calais, and 60 minutes from motorway to motorway. Round-trip tickets range from EUR518 for first class to EUR105 for second class. Cars without reservations, if they can get on at all, are charged 20 percent extra.
British Rail also has four daily departures from London's Victoria Station, all linking with the Dover-Calais/Boulogne ferry services to Paris. There is also an overnight service on the Newhaven-Dieppe ferry. Journey time is about eight hours. Credit-card bookings are accepted by phone or in person at a British Rail Travel Centre.

Car Transport
Le Shuttle (PHONE: 0990/353-535 in the U.K.; 03-21-00-61-00 in France; www.eurotunnel.co.uk).

Passenger Service
BritRail Travel (PHONE: 800/677-8585 in the U.S.; 020/7834-2345 in the U.K.; www.britrail.net).
Eurostar (PHONE: 0990/186-186 in the U.K.; 08-36-35-35-39 in France; www.eurostar.com).
InterCity Europe (Victoria Station, London, PHONE: 020/7834-2345; 020/7828-0892; 0990/848-848 credit-card bookings).
Rail Europe (PHONE: 800/942-4866 in the U.S., www.raileurope.com).

Paris's arrondissements are laid out in a spiral, beginning from the area around the Louvre (1 arrondissement), then moving clockwise through the Marais, the Quartier Latin, St-Germain, and then out from the city center to the outskirts until to Menilmontant/Père-Lachaise (20 arrondissement).
Occasionally you may see an address with a number plus bis - for instance, 20 bis rue Vavin. This indicates that 20 bis is the next entrance or door down from 20 rue Vavin.
In France, you enter a building on the ground floor, or rez-de-chausée (RC or 0), and go up one floor to the first floor, or premier étage.
General address terms include: av. (abbreviation for avenue); bd. (abbreviation for boulevard); carrefour (crossway); cours (promenade); passage (passageway); quai (quay/wharf/pier); rue (street); sq. (abbreviation for square).

On weekdays, banks are open generally 9:30 AM-4:30 or 5 PM (the Banque de France closes at 3:30), and some banks are also open on Saturday 9-5 as well. Most government offices and businesses are open 9-5.
Generally, large shops are open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 7 or 8 PM and don't close at lunchtime. Many of the large department stores stay open until 10 PM on Wednesday or Thursday. Smaller shops and many supermarkets often open earlier (8 AM) but take lengthy lunch breaks (1 PM-3 PM) and generally close around 8 PM; small food shops are often open Sunday mornings from 9 AM to 1 PM. Some corner grocery stores stay open until 11 PM; these carry basic necessities like diapers, bread, cheese, and fruit (and perhaps the unnecessary bottle of chilled champagne), though at fairly high prices. Most shops close all day Sunday, except some around the Marais, the Bastille, the Latin Quarter, and the Ile de la Cité.

Museums & Sights
Most museums close one day a week - usually either Monday or Tuesday - and on national holidays. Generally, museums and national monuments are open from 10 AM to 5 or 6 PM. A few close for lunch (noon-2) and are open Sunday only in the afternoon. Many of the large museums have one nocturne (nighttime) opening per week when they are open until 9:30 or 10 PM. The Louvre is closed on Tuesday and stays open late on Wednesday until 9:45 PM. The Centre Pompidou is closed on Tuesday and has late opening hours daily until 10 PM. The Musée d'Orsay is closed on Monday and stays open until 9:30 PM on Thursday.

If you're arriving from an EU country, you may be required to declare all goods and prove that anything over the standard limit is for personal consumption. But there is no limit or customs tariff imposed on goods carried within the EU.

Any amount of French or foreign currency may be brought into France, but foreign currencies converted into euros may be reconverted into a foreign currency only up to the equivalent of EUR763.

Information
Direction des Douanes (16 rue Yves Toudic, 10, PHONE: 01-40-40-39-00).

New Zealand
7 ter rue Léonardo da Vinci, Paris, 16, métro Victor Hugo PHONE: 01-45-00-24-11), open weekdays 9-1.

United Kingdom
35 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, Paris, 8, PHONE: 01-44-51-31-00, métro Madeleine), open weekdays 9:30-12:30 and 2:30-5.

United States
2 rue St-Florentin, Paris, 1, PHONE: 01-43-12-22-22 in English; 01-43-12-23-47 in emergencies, métro Concorde), open weekdays 9-3.

Emergency Services
The following numbers are toll-free and can be dialed from any phone:
Ambulance (PHONE: 15).
Fire Department (PHONE: 18).
Police (PHONE: 17).
Hospitals

The American Hospital (63 bd. Victor-Hugo, Neuilly, PHONE: 01-47-47-70-15).
The Hertford British Hospital (3 rue Barbès, Levallois-Perret, PHONE: 01-46-39-22-22).

Hot Lines
SOS Help (PHONE: 01-47-23-80-80), open 3-11 PM, is an English-language crisis and information hot line.
Late-Night and 24-Hour Pharmacies
Dhéry (Galerie des Champs, 84 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8, PHONE: 01-45-62-02-41) is open 24 hours.
Pharmacie des Arts (106 bd. Montparnasse, 14) is open daily until midnight.
Pharmacie Matignon (rue Jean-Mermoz, at the Rond-Point de Champs-Élysées, 8) is open daily until 2 AM.

Information

Paris Bike (83 rue Daguerre, 14, PHONE: 01-45-38-58-58). Paris à Vélo, C'est Sympa (37 bd. Bourdon, 4, PHONE: 01-48-87-60-01).

Boat Tours

Boat trips along the Seine run throughout the day and evening for a cost of EUR6.10-EUR15.25. Many of the tours include lunch or dinner for an average cost of EUR45.80-EUR91.60. Reservations for meals are usually essential, and some require jacket and tie.
Fees & Schedules

Bateaux Mouches (Pont de l'Alma, 8, PHONE: 01-42-25-96-10; www.bateauxmouches.com).

Bateaux Parisiens-Tour Eiffel (Pont d'Iéna, 7, PHONE: 01-44-11-33-44; www.bateauxparisiens.com).

Bat-O-Bus (Pont d'Iéna, 7, PHONE: 01-44-11-33-44 or 01-44-11-33-99; www.ratp.com).

Canauxrama (Bassin de l'Arsenal, 12; PHONE: 01-42-39-15-00; www.canauxrama.com).
Paris Canal (19 quai de la Loire, 19, PHONE: 01-42-40-96-97).
Vedettes du Pont Neuf (Ile de la Cité, 1, PHONE: 01-46-33-98-38).
Yachts de Paris (Port de Javel, PHONE: 01-44-54-14-70; www.yachtsdeparis.com).
Bus Tours
For a two-hour orientation tour by bus, the standard price is about EUR23. The two largest bus-tour operators are Cityrama and Paris Vision; for a more intimate - albeit expensive - tour of the city, Cityrama also runs several minibus excursions per day. Paris Bus gives tours in a London-style double-decker bus; you can catch the bus at any of nine pickup points. RATP (Paris Transit Authority) also gives guide-accompanied excursions in and around Paris by bus.

Fees & Schedules
Cityrama (4 pl. des Pyramides, 1, PHONE: 01-44-55-61-00).
Paris Bus (PHONE: 01-42-30-55-50).
Paris Vision (214 rue de Rivoli, 1, PHONE: 01-42-60-31-25).
RATP (53 bis quai des Grands-Augustins, 6, PHONE: 08-36-68-41-14).
Helicopter Tours
For a spectacular aerial view of Paris, Delta Lima offers a helicopter tour; it takes off from Toussus le Noble (15 minutes from Paris). Tours last 35 minutes and cost EUR146.85 per person.

Fees & Schedules
Delta Lima (PHONE: 01-40-68-01-23).
Minibus Tours
Paris Bus and Paris Major Limousine organize tours of Paris and environs by luxury minibuses (for 4 to 15 passengers) for a minimum of four hours. The price varies from EUR260 to EUR397. Reservations are essential.

Information
Paris Bus (22 rue de la Prévoyance, Vincennes, PHONE: 01-43-65-55-55, www.touring-france.com).
Paris Major Limousine (6 pl. de la Madeleine, 8, PHONE: 01-44-52-50-00, www.paris-limousine.fr).
Walking Tours
There are a number of English-language walking tours of Paris. Walking tours last about two hours and cost about EUR9.15.

Paris Contact arranges walking tours of popular sights such as the Louvre and Versailles and unique theme tours, such as "Jefferson's Paris" and "The Paris of Proust," and can, upon request, do individually organized tours.

Paris Walking Tours offers a wide variety of tours, from neighborhood visits to museum tours and theme tours (such as "Hemingway's Paris"). Bohemian Paris organizes a stroll on the Left Bank, filled with literary discussion, biographical information, and gossipy anecdotes about Paris in the '20s; this tour, led by a university professor and writer, costs EUR30.55 and lasts 2½ hours.

Black Paris Tours organizes a variety of tours exploring the places made famous by African-American musicians, writers, artists, and political exiles. Tours include a four- to five-hour walking-bus-métro tour (EUR53.45) that offers first-time visitors a city orientation and a primer in the history of African-Americans in Paris. Other options include "Montmartre/Pigalle: The 1920s Harlem of Paris" and tours of top African and soul-food restaurants.

A list of walking tours is also available from the Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques, in the weekly magazine Pariscope, and in L'Officiel des Spectacles, which lists walking tours under the heading "Conférences" (most are in French).

Fees & Schedules

Bohemian Paris (PHONE: 01-56-24-36-00).

Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques (Bureau des Visites/Conférences, Hôtel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4, PHONE: 01-44-61-21-70).

Paris Contact (PHONE: 01-42-51-08-40).

Paris Walking Tours (PHONE: 01-48-09-21-40, www.paris-walks.com).

Black Paris Tours (PHONE: 01-46-37-03-96).

Post Offices
Main office (52 rue du Louvre, 1), open 24 hours seven days a week.
Champs-Élysées office (10 rue Balzar, 8), open until 7 PM.
Overnight Services
Sending overnight mail from Paris is relatively easy. Besides DHL, Federal Express, and UPS, the French post office has an overnight mail service called Chronopost that has special prepaid boxes for international use (and also boxes specifically made to mail wine). All agencies listed can be used as drop-off points and all have information in English.

Major Services
DHL (6 rue des Colonnes, 7, PHONE: 01-55-35-30-30; www.dhl.com).
Federal Express (63 bd. Haussmann, 8, PHONE: 01-40-06-90-16; www.fedex.com/fr.
UPS (34 bd. Malesherbes, 8, PHONE: 08-00-87-78-77; www.ups.com).
Postal Rates
Letters and postcards to the United States and Canada cost EUR.67 for 20 grams. Letters and postcards to the United Kingdom cost EUR.46 for up to 20 grams. Letters and postcards within France cost EUR.46. Stamps can be bought in post offices (La Poste) and cafés sporting a red "Tabac" sign outside. It takes, on the average, 5 days for a letter to reach the U.S., 5-6 days for Australia, 4-5 days for Canada, and 3 days for any location in Europe.
Receiving Mail
If you're uncertain where you'll be staying, have mail sent to American Express (if you're a card member) or to "poste restante" at any post office.

To get cash at ATMs in Paris, your PIN must be four digits long, If you are having trouble remembering your pin, do not try more than twice, because at the third attempt, the machine will withhold your card and you will have to go back the next morning to retrieve it.

Currency
January 1, 2002, saw the introduction of the euro coins and notes. All noncash transactions, such as payments by credit card, are now made in euros. The local currency, the French franc, ceased to be legal tender on February 17, 2002.

Euro notes come in denominations of EUR500, EUR200, EUR100, EUR50, EUR20, EUR10 and EUR5. The euro is divided into 100 cents, and coins are available as EUR2 and EUR1 and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 cents. The euro can be used in 11 other European countries: Austria, Belgium, Finland, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal, and Spain.
French francs come in colorful 500-, 200-, 100-, 50-, and 20-franc banknotes; 20-, 10-, 5-, 2-, and 1-franc coins; and tiny 20-, 10-, and 5-centime coins.
Exchanging Money
These days, the easiest way to get euros is through ATMs. ATM rates are excellent because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks.
For the best deal, compare rates at banks (which usually have the most favorable rates) and booths and look for exchange booths that clearly state "no commission." At exchange booths always confirm the rate with the teller before exchanging money. You won't do as well at exchange booths in airports or rail and bus stations, in hotels, in restaurants, or in stores. Of all the banks in Paris, Banque de Paris generally has the best rates. To avoid lines at airport exchange booths, get a bit of local currency before you leave home.

Exchange Services
International Currency Express (PHONE: 888/278-6628 orders, www.foreignmoney.com).
Thomas Cook Currency Services (PHONE: 800/287-7362 telephone orders and retail locations, www.us.thomascook.com).
Taxes
All taxes must be included in posted prices in France. The initials TTC (toutes taxes comprises - taxes included) sometimes appear on price lists but, strictly speaking, are superfluous. By law, restaurant and hotel prices must include 20.6% taxes and a service charge. If they show up as extra charges on your bill, complain.

A number of shops offer VAT refunds to foreign shoppers. You are entitled to an Export Discount of 20.6%, depending on the item purchased, but it is often applicable only if your purchases in the same store reach a minimum of EUR430 (for U.K. and EU residents) or EUR185 (other residents, including U.S. and Canadian residents). Remember to ask for the refund, as some stores - especially larger ones - offer the service only upon request.

Europe Tax-Free Shopping is a VAT refund service that makes getting your money back hassle-free. ETS is Europe-wide and has 90,000 affiliated stores. In participating stores, ask for the ETS refund form (called a Shopping Cheque). Have it stamped like any other customs form by customs officials when leaving the European Union. Then take it to the ETS counter and your money will be refunded on the spot in the form of cash, check, or a refund to your credit card account. The convenience will cost you 20% - but then it's done.

Global Refund (PHONE: 800/566-9828, www.globalrefund.com) is a VAT refund service that makes getting your money back hassle-free. The service is available Europe-wide at 130,000 affiliated stores. In participating stores, ask for the Global Refund refund form (called a Shopping Cheque). Have it stamped like any customs form by customs officials when you leave the European Union (be ready to show customs officials what you've bought). Then take the form to one of the more than 700 Global Refund counters - conveniently located at every major airport and border crossing - and your money will be refunded on the spot in the form of cash, check, or a refund to your credit-card account (minus a small percentage for processing).

Tipping

The French have a clear idea of when they should be tipped. Bills in bars and restaurants include a service charge, but it is customary to round out your bill with some small change unless you're dissatisfied. The amount of this varies: anywhere from EUR.10 if you've merely bought a beer, to EUR1.50 after a meal. Tip taxi drivers and hairdressers about 10%. Give ushers in theaters and movie theaters EUR.15-EUR.30. In some theaters and hotels, coat check attendants may expect nothing (if there is a sign saying "Pourboire Interdit" - tips forbidden); otherwise give them EUR.30-EUR.75. Washroom attendants usually get EUR.30, though the sum is often posted.

If you stay in a hotel for more than two or three days, it is customary to leave something for the chambermaid - about EUR1.50 per day. In expensive hotels you may well call on the services of a baggage porter (bell boy) and hotel porter and possibly the telephone receptionist. All expect a tip: Plan on about EUR1.50 per item for the baggage porter, but the other tips will depend on how much you've used their services - common sense must guide you here. In hotels that provide room service, give EUR.75 to the waiter (this does not apply to breakfast served in your room). If the chambermaid does some pressing or laundering for you, give her EUR.75 on top of the charge made. If the concierge has been very helpful, it is customary to leave a tip of EUR8-EUR16, depending on the type of hotel and the level of service.

Gas-station attendants get nothing for gas or oil, and EUR.75 to EUR1.50 for checking tires. Train and airport porters get a fixed EUR.75 to EUR1.50 per bag, but you're better off getting your own baggage cart if you can. Museum guides should get EUR.75 to EUR1.50 after a guided tour, and it is standard practice to tip tour guides (and bus drivers) EUR1.50 or more after an excursion, depending on its length.

All citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United States, and the United Kingdom, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter France for stays of up to 90 days. If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate or local police.

Passport Offices
Australian Citizens
Australian Passport Office (PHONE: 131-232, www.dfat.gov.au/passports).
Canadian Citizens
Passport Office (PHONE: 819/994-3500; 800/567-6868 in Canada, www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/passport).
New Zealand Citizens
New Zealand Passport Office (PHONE: 04/494-0700, www.passports.govt.nz).
U.K. Citizens

When dialing France from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the telephone number. To call a telephone number in Paris from the United States, dial 011-33 plus the phone number minus the initial 0. To call France from the United Kingdom, dial 00-33, then dial the number in France minus the initial 0.

Directory & Operator Information

To find a number in France, dial 12 for information. For international inquiries, dial 00-33 plus the country code. These calls have a fixed rate of 4 francs/EUR.61.

International Calls

To make a direct international call out of France, dial 00 and wait for the tone, then dial the country code (1 for the United States and Canada, 44 for the United Kingdom, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand) and the area code (minus any initial 0) and number.

To call home with the help of an operator, dial 00-33 plus the country code. There is an automatic EUR6.79 service charge.

Local Calls
When making a local call in Paris or to Ile-de-France, dial the full 10-digit number, including the initial 0. A local call costs EUR.11 for every three minutes.

Long-Distance Calls
AT&T, MCI, and Sprint access codes make calling long distance relatively convenient, but you may find the local access number blocked in many hotel rooms. First ask the hotel operator to connect you. If the hotel operator balks, ask for an international operator, or dial the international operator yourself. One way to improve your odds of getting connected to your long-distance carrier is to travel with more than one company's calling card (a hotel may block Sprint, for example, but not MCI). If all else fails, call from a pay phone.

Access Codes

AT&T Direct (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-11; 08-00-99-01-11; 800/222-0300 information).
MCI WorldPhone (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-19; 800/444-4444 information).
Sprint International Access (PHONE: 08-00-99-00-87; 800/793-1153 information).
Phone Cards
Most French pay phones are operated by télécartes (phone cards), which you can buy from post offices, tabacs, and métro stations. These phone cards will save you money and hassle, since it is almost impossible to find phones that take change these days.

There are two types of cards: the télécarte international, which allows you to make local calls and offers greatly reduced rates on international calls (instructions are in English and the cost is EUR7.63 for 60 units and EUR15.26 for 120 units); and the simple télécarte, which allows you to make calls in France (the cost is EUR7.48 for 50 units; EUR14.80 for 120 units). You can also use your credit card in much the same way as a télécarte.

You will occasionally find a café with a pay phone that operates with coins. Lift the receiver, place your coin(s) in the appropriate slots, and dial.

In Paris
Espace du Tourisme d'Ile-de-France (Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli, Paris 75001, PHONE: 08-03-81-80-00 or 01-44-50-19-98).
Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris (Paris Tourist Office, 127 av. des Champs-Élysées, PHONE: 01-49-52-53-54; 01-49-52-53-56 recorded information in English).

At Home
France On-Call (PHONE: 410/286-8310 weekdays 9-7, www.francetourism.com) provides information for travelers from the United States.

Weather Chart

The following are the normal daily temperature ranges for Paris:
January 34-43°F (1-6°C); February 34-45°F (1-7°C); March 39-54°F (4-12°C); April 43-60°F (6-16°C); May 49-68°F (10-20°C); June 55-73°F (13-23°C); July 58-76°F (14-25°C); August 58-75°F (14-24°C); September 53-70°F (12-21°C); October 46-60°F (8-16°C); November 40-50°F (8-16°C); December 36-44°F (2-7°C).

Holidays
January 1 (New Year's Day); Easter Monday (March or April); May 1 (Labor Day); May 8 (VE Day); May 24 (Ascension); Pentecost Monday (May or June); July 14 (Bastille Day); August 15 (Assumption); November 1 (All Saints); November 11 (Armistice); December 25 (Christmas).

Regular buses accept métro tickets, or you can buy a single ticket on board (exact change appreciated) for EUR1.22. If you have individual tickets, you should be prepared to punch one or more tickets in the red and gray machines on board the bus. You need to show (but not punch) weekly, monthly, and Paris-Visite/Mobilis tickets to the driver. Bus tickets can be bought on board buses, in the métro, or in any bar/tabac store sporting one of the lime-green métro symbols above its street sign.

Most routes operate from 7 AM to 8:30 PM (or 20H30 to the French); some continue to midnight. After 8:30 you must either take the métro or one of the 18 "Noctambus" lines (indicated by a brown owl symbol at bus stops). These bus lines operate hourly (1:30-5:30 AM) between Châtelet and various nearby suburbs; they can be hailed at any point on their route.

The Balabus, a public orange-and-white colored bus that runs between May and September, gives an interesting 50-minute tour around the major sights. You can use your Paris Visite, Carte Orange, or Mobilis passes, or one to three bus tickets depending on how far you ride. The route runs from La Défense to Gare de Lyon.

Bus Information

Car Rentals
Rates in Paris begin at approximately $70 a day and $200 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 20.6% or, if you pick it up at the airport, the airport tax.
Driving in Paris is difficult; you're better off renting a car only when you want to take excursions out of the city.

At Home
Alamo (PHONE: 800/327-9633; 020/8759-6200 in the United Kingdom).
Avis (PHONE: 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 02/9353-9000 in Australia; 09/525-1982 in New Zealand).
Budget (PHONE: 800/527-0700; 0144/227-6266 in the United Kingdom).
Dollar (PHONE: 800/800-4000; 020/8897-0811 in the United Kingdom; where it is known as Eurodollar; 02/9223-1444 in Australia).
Hertz (PHONE: 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 020/8897-2072 in the United Kingdom; 02/9669-2444 in Australia; 03/358-6777 in New Zealand).
National (PHONE: 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom).

Requirements
In France your own driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is not necessary unless you are planning on a long-term stay; you can get one from the American or Canadian automobile association, and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club.

Auto Clubs
American Automobile Association (PHONE: 800/564-6222).
Automobile Association (PHONE: 0990/500-600).
Royal Automobile Club (PHONE: 0990/722-722 for membership inquiries; 0345/121345 for insurance).
Gasoline
Gas is expensive and prices vary enormously; anything from EUR1-EUR1.20 francs per liter.
Rules of the Road
In France, you drive on the right and yield to drivers coming from streets to the right. However, this rule does not necessarily apply at roundabouts, where you should watch out for just about everyone. You must wear seat belts, and children under 12 may not travel in the front seat. Speed limits are 130 kph (80 mph) on expressways (autoroutes), 110 kph (70 mph) on divided highways (routes nationales), 90 kph (55 mph) on other roads (routes), 50 kph (30 mph) in cities and towns (villes et villages).

A native quirk that takes some getting used to is the famous priorité à droite law that states that all drivers must yield to any vehicle coming from the right - to be safe, slow down at all crosswalks and make sure no one is coming from the right.

Some important traffic terms and signs to note: Sortie (Exit); Sens Unique (One Way); Stationnement Interdite (No Parking); Cul de Sac (Dead End). Blue rectangular signs indicate a highway; triangles carry illustrations of a particular traffic hazard; speed limits are indicated in a circle with the maximum speed encircled in red.

Fourteen métro and two RER (Réseau Express Régional, or the Regional Express Network) lines crisscross Paris and the suburbs, and you are seldom more than 500 yards from the nearest station. The métro network connects at several points in Paris with the RER, the commuter trains that go from the city center to the suburbs. RER trains crossing Paris on their way from suburb to suburb can be great time-savers because they only make a few stops in the city (you can use the same tickets for both the métro and the RER within Paris).

Métro service starts at 5:30 AM and continues until 1:00 AM, when the last train on each line reaches its terminus. Some lines and stations in Paris are a bit risky at night, in particular Lines 2 and 13. But in general, the métro is relatively safe throughout.

Métro tickets cost EUR1.20 each; a carnet (10 tickets for EUR8.40) is a better value. The best deal is the weekly (coupon jaune) or monthly (carte orange) ticket, sold according to zone. Zones 1 and 2 cover the entire métro network; tickets cost EUR13 a week or EUR43.45 a month. If you plan to take suburban trains to visit places in Ile-de-France, consider a four-zone (Versailles, St-Germain-en-Laye; EUR21.65 a week) or six-zone (Rambouillet, Fontainebleau; EUR28.10 a week) ticket. For these weekly/monthly tickets, you need a pass (available from rail and major métro stations) and a passport-size photograph (many stations have photo booths).

A one-day (Mobilis) and the two- to five-day (Paris-Visite) tickets assure unlimited travel on the entire RATP network: métro, RER, bus, tram, funicular (Montmartre), and noctambus (night bus). Unlike the coupon jaune, which is good from Monday morning to Sunday evening, Mobilis and Paris-Visite passes are valid starting any day of the week and give you discounts on a limited number of museums and tourist attractions. The price is EUR8.40 (one-day), EUR13.70 (two-day), EUR18.30 (three-day), and EUR26.70 (five-day) for Paris only. Rates for children ages 4-11 are approximately half of these prices. Suburbs such as Versailles and St-Germain-en-Laye cost EUR23.60 (one-day). EuroDisney costs EUR23.60, EUR34.30, EUR42.70, and EUR53.35 respectively for a one- to four-day pass.

Access to métro and RER platforms is through an automatic ticket barrier. Slide your ticket in and pick it up as it pops out. Be certain to keep your ticket during your journey; you'll need it to leave the RER system and in case you run into any green-clad ticket inspectors, who will impose a big fine if you can't produce your ticket.

Métro Information

RATP (Pl. de la Madeleine, 8; 53 bis quai des Grands-Augustins, 6; PHONE: 08-36-68-41-14, www.ratp.fr), open daily 9-5.

The easiest way to get a taxi is to ask someone at your hotel or a restaurant to call a taxi for you or to go to the nearest taxi stand (you can find one every couple of blocks). Cabs with their signs lit can be hailed but are difficult to spot. Taxis seldom take more than three people at a time. Tip the driver about 10%.